Christiano explains his process…
It started with a small study in the sketchbook … forms only, nothing too complex.
The second step was to start the sketch, which I normally do with a 0.3 mechanical pencil lead, to have very light strokes. Since I was filming, I thought the traces could be too light to be captured by the camera, so I decided to scribble with a woodless pencil.
At this stage I don’t spare scribbles … I rarely erase anything and I work on pose and proportions. In this case, I alread had a brief study on the sketchbook, so doodling was not necessary.
After defining the basic shapes, it’s time to erase everything with a putty eraser to leave only a faint shadow of the traces. At this point, many people would outline more carefull traces, but I confess I do not have much patience to do the same thing several times. I go straight from the preliminary sketch to a more detailed drawing with a 0.5 mechanical pencil.
At this stage I still allow myself to change some things… the gargoyle’s head changes a lot during the process.
As always, I prefer thin strokes, and then I soften the lines again with the putty eraser and I go right to the 0.05 ink pen. Impatience leads me to practically draw while inking, which I could not do if I had to let someone else ink it.
I prefer thin strokes because I never know where and how much detail I’ll decide to add to the design. Small wrinkles, seams. So I keep to fine lines, going from 0.03 to 0.2 whenever I can I. This allows me to thicken the contours if I find it necessary, as was the case in this panel.
With the outlines made, it was time to start filling the spaces. I even prepared a brush and nankin for this, but I decided to do the filling with the Copic multiliner BS once I decided that I would work with the Copic markers to give the volumes and values in art later.
With the black areas filled, I noticed the need to thicken the lines (lucky me for having used a fine pen at the beginning) Lines and black ready, I selected the gray values that Iwould use.
A range of warm gray values for the gargoyle, made of stone, and neutral grays for the Dark Knight suit.
I usually use the markers working from light to dark because it is always possible to darken an area, but I could hardly lighten a dark area.
For the gargoyle I used markers W1, W3, W6 and W8. For the Batman costume, N0, N2, N4, N6, N8.
You can see I work with markers as I work with ink …drawing as I ink it… It is an old habit I can’t help…. for me is more exciting to take certain decisions on the spot.
I hope you enjoy the videos!